Clothing and Textile Manufacturing's Environmental Impact and How to Shop More Ethically
The shirt you're wearing right now—what's it made from? In its rawest form, was it once growing in a field, on a sheep's back, or sloshing at the bottom of an oil well? We wear clothes every day, yet few of us spend much time reflecting on what goes into manufacturing various textiles and their environmental impacts. This is interesting considering how much thought we give to the food we eat or the skincare products we use.
Most of us don't realise how environmentally intensive it is to produce a single article of clothing, says fashion sustainability expert Clara Vuletich, whose PhD research focuses on sustainable textiles.
“Textile supply chains are some of the most complex of any manufacturing sector. When you think about one garment and how it ends up on your back, it's gone through many different suppliers and production processes.”
First comes the fibre, which, whether derived from a plant, animal, or crude oil, is almost always an energy- and pollutant-intensive process. The fibre is processed until it can be spun into yarn, which is then woven or knitted into fabric. Along the way, bleaches and dyes are usually involved. Finally, the fabric is made into a garment. Each of these steps likely takes place in different factories, possibly in different countries. “All of these stages have environmental impacts,” Dr Vuletich said.
“And we know that textile manufacturing, generally speaking, uses huge amounts of water because all of this yarn has to be constantly washed. It undergoes numerous chemical processes to transform it into high-quality, delicate material and to change its natural colour. So yes, all this is hugely impactful.”
The apparel and footwear industries currently account for 8 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions—nearly as much as the entire European Union—according to a recent industry report, Measuring Fashion. By 2030, the climate impact of the apparel industry alone is forecast to nearly match today's total annual US greenhouse gas emissions, emitting 4.9 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent.
RMIT textile technologist Mac Fergusson said textiles made in Australia are setting a good example for the rest of the world, with the global industry making strides to become more environmentally friendly.
“We've got a lot of recycling happening that many people aren't aware of,” he said, citing an upcoming Victorian operation that will recycle plastic bottles into polyester.
Because manufacturing processes are so complex and varied, it is difficult to quantify their exact environmental effects.
Life Cycles
So, are some fibres better or worse for the environment than others? Should we completely eschew cotton, for example, because of the water and pesticides used to grow it?
It's not quite that simple, Dr Vuletich pointed out. Cotton could be knitted into a jersey t-shirt, which would be washed frequently and perhaps wear out quickly, or it could be turned into a finely woven specialty fabric for a kimono jacket that's washed sparingly and carefully maintained. “We talk about life cycles,” she said.
“You've got the impacts of the production phase, but then the material is made into a garment and used by the customer, which also has environmental impacts.”
Knowing what goes into manufacturing textiles can help you make informed purchasing decisions. Choosing recycled polyester, local or organic cotton, or water-saving fibres like hemp will likely have a lower environmental impact and signal to producers that there is demand for more eco-friendly products.
To make a real environmental difference, Measuring Fashion recommends combining recycling with a shift to renewable energy, more efficient processes, smarter designs, and different consumption models—by you, the consumer.
Mr Fergusson noted that local wool and cotton growers would like to see more textile manufacturing in Australia, but local energy costs are prohibitive.
“I know several cotton farmers who've looked into the issue, but our energy costs are too high. Textile manufacturing isn't labour-intensive; it's capital-intensive.”
Shop Sparingly, Treasure What You Have
If buying clothes with the environment in mind is important to you, it can be tough to know where to shop.
While some brands promote their environmental credentials, many don't provide information about how their fabrics are sourced. In fact, Dr Vuletich said, sometimes even the brand itself has limited control over the origins of its textiles, especially smaller Australian brands without the economic clout of global chains.
“Obviously, it's easier for the big players like H&M—they've got huge scale. You've got to be doggedly determined to succeed in this space.”
Consumers seeking information can use apps like Good On You, which rates brands based on their environmental impact, as well as their labour and animal welfare practices. However, such apps rely on brands being transparent about their processes.
If you're truly trying to minimise your wardrobe's environmental impact, Dr Vuletich said, the best approach is to limit new purchases and cherish what you already own. “Be conscious. Take care of your clothes and treasure them. Each garment has had a journey,” she said.
“It's complex, but I find it exciting. Our eyes have been opened to these amazing processes and materials. The new innovations emerging are truly inspiring. I think as consumers, we're ready for it—we're hungry for it, especially the younger generation.”
This article was originally published by ABC Science. Source: Tegan Taylor, ABC Science (3 April 2018).